Roland Iten for

The Gagarin Watch

Elaborating on the magnificent orbiting tourbillon complication created by Bernard Lederer which rotates in 108 minutes completely around a watch dial and drawing from other elements of the fantastic maiden voyage --   108 minutes-around-the-world by Yuriy Gagerin in 1961 -- Roland Iten created the unique case and dial of The Gagarin Tourbillon Commemorative 50th anniversary edition and incorporated unique features, such as...

  • A counter-clockwise directional tourbillon construction based on the famous Gargarin memorial to highlight that Yuriy Gagarin’s voyage went from East to West, hence the counter-clockwise voyage of the Tourbillion around the dial
  • A commemorative dial with micro-engravings documenting the continents and cities flown over and marking highlights of Gagarin’s flight including a red arc to indicate the period when Gagarin experienced zero gravity.
  • A case design reminiscent of the Vostok with an integrated rotating magnifying glass allowing an appreciation of details on the tourbillon and dial. Looking through the loupe to the dial is reminiscent of looking out of the Vostok space capsule towards the earth.
  • The magnifying glass is locked in place by a catch inspired by a hatch on the Vostok.
  • For more information on the Gagarin Tourbillon visit

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An Opus Study for Harry Winston

In 2009 Harry Winston began a journey to produce the first “Opus” edition entirely made in-house and they called upon Roland Iten to create and design the complete watch concept  study.

Starting with the premise that most wind-up watches do not offer excitement in the winding process, especially when the watch is on the wrist, Roland created a watch movement to allow its wearer “the joy to be in control of power.”

A “pump” activated double piston, powered by a spring loaded lever, activates the fly wheel, affording it a visually and acoustically excitingly fast rotation which winds up the watch. The fly wheel’s open cylinders emit a whistling sound like the roaring of an engine each time the lever is activated.

And due to the extremely fast rotation of the disc, the back of watch incorporates windows within which to watch an animation celebrating the wind-up process.

Many more unique features adorn this incredible and Seriously Playful© watch concept. For more information, contact

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The R8 Mark I Purdey edition

In the year 2004,  Roland Iten joined forces with James Purdey and Sons,  the Royal Gunmakers of England to create the first ever mechanically performing belt buckle PURDEY edition based on the R8 Mark I Precious model.   Five pieces were produced entirely in steel with three  having blackened steel engraved in-lays and two  having yellow gold engraved in-lays.  Each of the five pieces were a Unique Editions as no two engravings were the same.   All five pieces have been sold.

For more information and/or to commission a Unique Piece based on the R8 Mark II Precious model,  please contact

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The R81 Purdey edition

Working together with Purdey, the custom gun company, on the limited edition of the R8 Mark I AUTHENTIC gave Roland the opportunity to tour their factory, see how their guns open up and feel the power of the springs. This inspired him to create the R81 GOLDFINGER  Suspension Belt which  functions via a patented trigger mechanism which delivers 8 degrees/ 25mm of calibration along a ratchet barrel construction.   

Carrying on the tradition of creating unique editions for PURDEY,  Roland created a  limited series called the R81 PURDEY edition.  Using only natural or blackened steel with titanium architecture,  two pieces were created with damascus steel in-lays and two pieces with 200'000 year old fossilised mammoth tooth in-lays (pictured here).   All four pieces have been sold.

For more information and/or to commission an R81 PURDEY edition in either natural or blackened steel with damascus or fossiled mammoth tooth in-lays,  please contact

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The Jaeger Le Coultre Calibration Closure

Following from the successful world premiere of the first ever calibrated watch closure designed by Roland Iten for Francois Paul Journe in 2003, Jerome Lambert embraced to opportunity to enlist Roland to create a similar concept for Jaeger Le Coultre in 2008.

The result is a 8mm calibration clasp that can be micro-adjusted without opening the clasp or removing the watch from the wrist.

Moreover, by integrating the architectural design of the JLC logo into the function of the calibration clasp mechanism, Roland created a recognisable brand identity for all of the Jaeger Le Coultre watch models to which  the calibration clasp is applied.

For more information visit

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The Francois Paul Journe Calibration Closure

Having lived only kilometers from each other all their lives, it was half way around the world when Francois Paul Journe and Roland Iten decided to join forces for the first time.

Late at night in a Cigar Bar in Tokyo in 2003 the two masterminds of complication began to discuss how the contemplated calibration Roland Iten had applied to a mechanical belt buckle could be transformed into a watch clasp.

Table top sketches flowed from their pens as fluidly as the cognac poured from the bottle of Camus Cuveé they shared.

A year long creative process ensued and culminated in the world’s first calibrated watch closure designed by Francois Paul Journe and based on a patent created for him by Roland Iten.

This cylindrical mechanism incorporating a 360 degree rotation “magic click” device and affording an 8mm calibration of the watch band without opening the clasp or removing the watch from the wrist remains one of the Roland’s favourite product creations to date.

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